FAQS

When choosing a machine with a Front Loading Bobbin, the bobbin case has to be removed from the machine so the bobbin can be loaded into it. This type of bobbin will work fine if kept well lubricated and free of lint.

A Top Loading Bobbin case remains in place for threading and is only removed for cleaning. This system is easier to use then a Front Loading Bobbin as it just drops in from the top. They are often also fitted with a transparent plate so the amount of thread left is visible.

Nearly all machines include this facility nowadays. The toolbox can be removed from the machine, converting it from a flat bed to free arm. The free arm can be used for any difficult to sew areas.

Lower priced machines will not have adjustable length and width controls. They will only have 1 dial on the machine for stitch selector, in which the width and length are preset. Some will have 2 dials, stitch selector with variable length. People who will be using more than just the straight stitch will find it a great advantage to have separate length and width controls.

This will be standard on mid range machines and above. When sewing bulky materials, this facility is a must as some materials can be difficult to feed evenly. The pressure can be increased to make the feed dog grip the material and sew perfect even stitches. The pressure can be recuded when sewing delicate materials such as silk. Some machines have automatic foot pressure. The pressure is estimated by the thickness of the material under the foot.

Most machines have an automatic button hole facility. 4 step button holes are common on entry models, where the user turns a dial to sew each side of the button hole. On higher end models, a 1 step button hole facility is common. The button is loaded into the button hole foot and the machine will sew the 4 sides of the button hole in 1 step to match the button.

Stretch stitches, where the machines sews backwards aswell as forwards are available on all except the most basic machines. These stitches sew backwards as well as forwards to achieve various stitch patterns. These are useful not only when sewing stretch fabrics, but also for reinforcing seams.

This feature will limit the speed that the machine will sew when the foot control is fully pressed. This is useful for quilting or sewing around curves and corners etc.

AC motors are usually found on mid range machines. DC motores are generally used in computerised machines. DC motors have the advantage of being more controllable and offer better needle penetration at slower speeds.

This feature lowers the needle into the material so you don't have to turn the balance wheel. When the machine stops, the last stitch will have been completed and the needle will always stop at the needle bar stroke.

On computerised machines, this feature locks the stitch by automatically reversing at the start of the seam.

An information window will recommend which pressure foot, tension, stitch length and width to use for a particular stitch. It is found most commonly on computerised machines but also on some mechanical ones.

These are useful, but not essential. A hook located behind the needle and hooks through the eye of the needle to pull the thread through.

Automatic Tension is helpful, but not essential. Leaving the tension dial midway, and providing the same thickness of thread is used both top and bottom, the tension dial should rarely need adjusting.

Found mostly on computerized machines, this enables the user to string patterns together.

The 6 or 7 piece feed dog helps grip the fabric as it is being sewn delivering perfect even stitches. Excellent for buttonholes and other satin stitches.

Four Basic Steps before you sew!

Solution:

• Always turn the handwheel TOWARDS you (counter clockwise) as turning it in the opposite direction (away from you, clockwise) may knock the timing out requiring repair from a service centre.
• Always be sure your presser foot is in the DOWN position before sewing. Sewing with the presser foot in the up position will cause your thread to tangle and your bobbin to jam.
• Change needles regularly as dull/weak needles can cause damage to your machine and fabric.
• Always be sure you are using the correct bobbin for your machine.

Sometimes your machine just doesn’t want to co-operate!  For me, it’s usually when I’m working with a deadline. The thread breaks, my needle bends, or skipped stitches – UGH! 

Solution:

• When’s the last time you cleaned your machine?  It can get linty in the bobbin case area.  You should clean your machine fairly often and you should be able to tell when it needs a cleaning.  A small brush and compressed air are both very helpful tools.
• Un-thread and re-thread your machine entirely.  Sometimes you forget a loop when you’re threading and everything goes haywire.  Also make sure your bottom bobbin is threaded in the correct direction.
• Check your needle.  Does it need to be replaced?  Is it the correct size and type for the fabric you are using?

Problem: My thread is bunching on the back of my fabric!

Solution:

• We definitely recommend re-threading your machine.  Go slowly and make sure you aren’t missing anything.  Check your bottom bobbin too – is it threaded correctly?  A lot of the time thread bunches at the back of your fabric because the machine is not threaded properly.
• Are you using good quality thread?  Are you using the right thread for your project?
• At the beginning of each seam, hold the top and bottom threads up and away under the presser foot.  This should help with any bunching that occurs at the beginning of your stitches.
• Make sure your presser foot is in the down position while sewing.
• Check your tension settings for your upper thread – see your instruction book for tension settings.

Problem:  Adjusting Tension

• A properly threaded sewing machine with the correct tension settings should set you on your way to happy sewing.  But it’s not always easy to determine which tension settings to use.  Your sewing machine probably has a dial with numbers, but sometimes unmarked.  The general rule is “lefty losey, righty tighty”.  You’ll adjust your top tension most often, depending on your fabric and thread.  Always use a scrap of fabric to test out your tension before you sew any seams.

• Adjust your upper thread tension slowly and inspect your test fabric for signs of improvement or decline in how the stitches are coming together.

 

Why is my electronic machine beeping? Why won't my machine sew? Why will my machine start to sew then stop?

Solution:

• You may have accidentally lowered the buttonhole lever located just to the left of the needle bar. To make sure it is in the correct position for sewing, place your finger under the lever and push up.
• Also make sure the needle is set at the highest position and the bobbin winding spindle has been pushed back to the left.
• NOTE: To set the needle at the highest position, turn the hand wheel TOWARDS you, until the needle moves to the highest position.
• Finally, push the reverse button a couple of times, this will reset the machine.
• If none of the troubleshooting techniques above solved the issue, please contact the GUR Sewing Service Centre to have your machine serviced.

 

Why is my bobbin not winding evenly?

Solution:

• If your bobbin is winding unevenly, it’s possible you have not placed the thread correctly around the bobbin winding tension spring. If you believe the thread is placed correctly, please try wrapping the thread around the tension spring a second time – a common practice among keen sewers.
• If none of the troubleshooting techniques above solved the issue, please contact the GUR Sewing Service Centre.

 

 

Why is my machine skipping stitches?
Solution:

• Skipped stitches can mean one of two things: needle issues or disrupted timing.
• First, your needle may be dull or damaged and needs to be replaced. You should also check that you are using the correct needle for the type of fabric you are sewing. For example, knit and synthetic fabric requires a ballpoint needle. (Please see our How To Choose The Right Machine Needle For The Job section for more information).
• Next, check the needle is inserted correctly. The needle needs to be pushed as far up the needle shaft as possible. (It’s easy to insert the needle half way, clamp it down and think it is inserted correctly).
• Also, the flat part of the needle should be positioned towards the back. If the needle is not inserted correctly, it will not be able to pull up the bobbin thread and will cause skipped stitches.
• If the trouble shooting tips above did not correct the problem, please take your machine into a GUR Sewing service centre. It is possible the timing on the machine has been disrupted and needs to be reset.

 

Why doesn’t my stitch pattern match what is on my machine?
Solution:

• Different stitch patterns require different stitch lengths in order to sew correctly. Depending on your machine model, a decorative stitch such as a crescent or bead stitch will require the Stitch Length dial to be set at a smaller number (between 0.5 and 1.5).
• Continue to decrease the Stitch Length until you obtain the desired effect. If your machine has stretch stitches, you may be required to set the Stitch Length dial to the “S” or Stretch setting to obtain the stitch you want.
• The width setting can also affect the look of your stitch. You will obtain the best results if you set the Stitch Width dial to the highest number.

 

How often should I oil my machine?
Solution:

If your machine manual does not include instructions on oiling, your machine has been pre-lubricated at the factory and will not need additional lubricating. However, you can put 2 to 3 small drops of sewing machine oil in the bobbin case area and on the needle bar as this will not harm the machine.
 

How do I sew denim and heavy fabrics?

Solution:

To sew denim, we recommend that you use a denim style needle. You will need to set the machine for a straight stitch with the length regulated between 4 and 5 to allow the thread to wrap around the extra thickness of fabric. You will also get better results if you use the metal all-purpose foot that was originally attached to the shank when you took the machine out of the box. If you want to use topstitching thread, use it in the upper tension only; use regular all-purpose thread in the bobbin.

Sew at controlled moderate speed when sewing over multiple layers of seams.

What types of thread should I use?
Solution:

• Household sewing machines are designed to be used with regular all-purpose sewing thread. This thread can be purchased from your local sewing or fabric store. Most all-purpose thread is 100% polyester. If you are quilting, you can use cotton thread. The brand of thread we would reccommend are Gutermann or Drima.
• You can occasionally use a heavy duty thread or buttonhole twist. However, using this type of thread constantly will eventually damage your machine’s tension. If you do use heavy thread, be sure to use a appropriately sized needle (size 16 or 18) and increase the stitch length.
   

What foot do I use for normal stitching?
Solution:

While the identification from machine to machine will vary, the metal zigzag foot is the normal one. Many manufacturers will call it ‘A’ or ‘0’. Brother refers to it as ‘J’ and Singer often stamps it ‘B’. This foot is used for normal stitching primarily because it has a flat lower surface which helps to ‘iron’ the stitch after it is formed.

How long does a sewing machine needle last?

Solution:

It can last anywhere from 5 minutes to 8 hours, depending on what is being sewn. As a rule of thumb I recommend replacement of your needles every 2nd garment or 5 hours sewing time. Your needle is the cheapest part of your garment but is also the most likely equipment to destroy your project. Remember, if you can hear the needle hit the fabric, that is also a sign it is time for a new one. Please remember to dispose of sharps thoughtfully also.

Can I use a generic bobbin?

Solution:

Short answer is NO. Use only bobbins that are designed for your machine. If in doubt email us at info@gursewingmachines.com with your make and model and we will point you in the right direction.

• Sewing machine needles have an interesting shape. Look closely at one, and you will see it has a groove down the back. This is where the thread is tucked as the needle takes its stitch. One side of the top is flat. This is to make sure you don't put your needle in backward. It also assures your needle is held tightly by the needle clamp.
• Needles come in a variety of sizes and styles. The most common is the size 14 sharp-pointed needle. This is used for nearly all woven fabrics. The size 16 sharp-point is thicker and better for use on denim and other heavy fabrics. Size 11 needles are extra fine and will leave smaller holes in some delicate fabrics. In knit fabrics, a ballpoint needle works better than a sharp-pointed needle. That's because the rounded needle point will slide past the individual threads instead of catching them and dragging them through the hole in the needle plate.
• There are also special twin needles designed for topstitching or for double stitching on stretch fabrics. Be sure your machine is designed to accommodate twin needles before you try these.
• The needle is the first thing you should check when your machine doesn't seem to be working properly. If your needle is dull, it can poke your fabric through the hole instead of penetrating the fabric. This will cause your machine to skip stitches because the bobbin hook is prevented from catching the thread. If your needle is bent, it may be missing the exact spot where it needs to pass the bobbin hook. Needles can become dull after use on heavy fabric, especially when thick seams cross one another, from hitting pins, or because the needle clamp is loose.

Click here for the Needle Guide